View Full Version : 5-3-2006 New Orleans Jazz Fest 2006 - NOW WITH PICTURES
Man, I am still trying to digest everything that I've seen, experienced, tasted and lived through in the past week or so. I went to the New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival 2006 with a bunch of friends (also fondly known as Festeroo). There is so much to talk about, write about, and share. I could talk about the music, the food, the people, the partying, the city, and just my overall outlook. In fact, I will write about everything :)
The long and short of it is that I feel in love with the city. I couldn't live there, but it isn't a question of 'if' I make it back to New Orleans, but when. I just found the people, both local and visitors, to be amazingly nice and friendly, it was so easy to meet people and talk to people. I found the food delicious, the drinks great (and cheap) and the environment great. I just don't mean Bourbon St. bar hopping, there's a good chance in subsequent voyages to NOLA that I'd skip Bourbon entirely, but the French Quarter is just such a great place...
Thats the quick down and dirty, more in depth tomorrow...
LA must have shitty people and prices if you found NOLA to be cheap and have friendly people :shrug:
that's just me though.
Glad you had a good time :nice:
Foul Temptress 05-08-2006, 05:47 PM Geoff,
Your just jealous that you don't live in the 'big easy' anymore! ;)
I love New Orleans too, there is no place in the world like it. I am glad I could help navigate you Manu, and get you to the key places in the French Quarter.
Next time you are here I will have my dad cook you some great cajun food, and perhaps a crawfish boil. I should have my little house fixed up by then and you could crash with me.. but I live about 60 miles out of NOLA.
Feenix566 05-08-2006, 05:52 PM Am I the only one who read that thread title and thought:
"and you're to blame! You give love.. A BAD NAME!!"
haha, Feenix, I need to explain where thats from, I've just been so busy since returning, I've not been able to explain my travels, and that is key! Thats the official song of the trip :)
Heather, I'd love that. Next time I go to LA, I want to see more than just the city. I didn't get to do much site seeing, just music and food and booze...
But first, you must come out here :)
I'm trying to go out there. The only conference coming up in LA this year is one I've already attended :mad:
We flew out early early on Thursday morning. A 6 AM flight made sense when we booked it, but when you look at the logistics of making a 6Am flight, it was dumb. The idea was that we (I?) didn't want to 'waste a day.' If I was using a vacation day, I wanted the majority of the day in the city. If I wasn't, I wanted to get in so I could go to work, so like a 6PM flight. It made sense by utility and money. Its funny though, there is something about waking up at 2:45 to make it to the airport by 4:30 to 5 that makes you hate life.
Things were going alright, I went to Ira's, we picked up Corey and then Tasha, and the 4 of us made our way to LAX. Corey couldn't print his boarding pass online, but no worries, it would take just a minute once we got inside. None of us were checking baggage, so no worries. Corey's boarding pass had an S on it...what would that mean?
We got to the gate, all get in, and then Corey's boarding pass gets highlighted in bright pink. He gets to be submitted to the whim of a TSA employee for a spot in depth security check. And all I wanted was breakfast.
Time was getting closer and our flight was boarding. Ira went to get us breakfast, I waited for corey. We got to the gate and they asked if I could move my seat, so a family could sit together. It was a mom with 2 kids under 5, I agreed, but I ended up not sitting near Corey or Ira. Its okay, I passed out fast and until we hit Texas. Our flight was late. We had only 20 minutes between connecting flights in Texas. This was mistake number 2. 3 if you count corey's security check. This trip is starting off well. We jog/run to the new flight (as literally 75% of the LA to texas flight was going to NO) and made it on, all sat near one another and enjoyed a short flight into NOLA.
I wasn't sure what to expect of the city. I mean, you think of New Orleans and you imagine some place that looks nothing like LA, SD, SF, New York, Chicago. But ultimately, thats exactly what it looked like. NOLA was any decent sized city in the US. It was kind of weird. We had a no nonesense cab driver who barely spoke to us take us from the airport to the hotel, we checked in and decided to walk around the French Quarter some and get some lunch as we waited for Tasha (and then Carolyn) to get in.
My first impressions of the French Quarter were interesting. It felt like Disneyland. Granted, a dirtier, smellier, and a bit different type of crowd disneland, but thats what it felt like. It was surreal. This is more what I expected from New Orleans, to be transported from a 'normal' place to this kind of mythical or magical one. This isn't to mean that the French Quarter was bizarre, it was just colorful, the buildings were flats, they had places to live above the shops. It was, well, french, or at least European. The colors though, thats what made me think Disneyland.
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Heather told us about this great little Cafe called Cafe Maspero on Decatur street (which we fondly called Decooter the whole time). It was great. Our first 'traditional' NOLA meal, and 1 dollar daquaris (we got larges, so it was 3 bucks actually.) I was off my game though, took a while to eat, a while to drink, and just wasn't feeling all that great. We walked around some more, saw Cafe du Monde, Jackson Square, and just did a quick waltz about the FQ, and then went to the hotel to unwind and wait for Tasha.
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Tasha gets there and we do much the same, just walk around and enjoy the city. This time we go down to the riverwalk, see the Aquarium (we didn't go inside) see where the ferry boats land and just the Mississippi river. (I still remember how to spell that in the sing song fashion I learned in 2nd grade, weird.) I was feeling a bit sick, so I went back to the hotel, vegged out, they walked around some more and then met me to wait for Carolyn. Part of our travels revealed a strartling discovery. The World Trade Center. How it got to NOLA, I will not know...
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Finding dinner in NOLA was harder than I imagined. I think it is in part due to a lack of employees, but a Thursday night in the city, during the week of Jazz Fest, it felt like a lot of places closed really early. We found a decent looking place right on Bourbon Street. It was 'semi fast food' style, it wasn't much on atmosphere, but it had good drinks and decent food. I tried alligator, it wasn't too bad actually.
At dinner we met the first of what would be half a dozen groups that we became 'friends' with along the way. Nice people, we talked a while, about NOLA, Jazz, and partying, and then we parted. We got some drinks on Bourbon St. and found what would become Corey's favorite place in NOLA as well as inspire the 'song of the trip.' It was a decent bar, decent waitresses, but a sweet 80s cover band that played a whole lot of butt rock. The waitresses were really agressive in the 'selling of shots' but who were we to argue? We spent most of the night there, then went back to the hotel to pass out and wake up in the AM for Day 1 of Jazz Fest.
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We awoke at a decent hour on Friday morning and get ready in a good amount of time to make it there for Day 1 of the Jazz Festival. We took a Jazz Fest shuttle from the airport to the fairgrounds and took the same thing back. Before we left I realized I didn't have sunglasses so Tasha and I went in search of a cheap yet still overpriced pair.
I wasn't sure what to expect. Was it a big grass field, paved, how big would it be, how many people? Well, given I had honestly no expectations, I was pleasantly suprised. There were a TON of people there. At most of the big stages I would say that it was very crowded. There were maybe 10 stages that mostly had round the block music playing at them. There were 2 main food areas with a bunch of little ones scattered about. There were a ton of vendors selling just things of all sorts, just like any festival you'd go to. The people ranged in age from a bit younger than us to their 60s and even older. I'd say on the whole it was an older crowd with more people in their early 30s as opposed to early and mid 20s, but everyone was so nice and friendly any age gap was immaterial.
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Corey and I quickly realized that even with suntan lotion it was just too hot and we'd more than likely burn. A quick tour of wares for sale and we found nice and cheap straw type hates. I think it makes me look damn sexy.
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Today we saw Bob Dylan, Dr. John, Ani Defranco, and Yerba Buena. Its hard to say much else about the actual festival. It was amazing. The music, the people, the food, the weather, it was just so much fun and definately made me pledge to go back as often as I can.
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We left the festival right around when it ended at 7. We wanted to get back to the hotel and have a chance to change and relax a bit before our Booze Cruise. I say it was a booze cruise but that doesn't do it enough justice. It was Garage a Medeski playing a 3 hour set on a riverboat that went down and up and Mississippi River. I drank a lot, so it became a booze cruise.
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The boat was called the Cajun Queen. I wonder if names like that bother locals. I enjoyed it. This is actually not the queen, but a cooler boat, so we took our group picture in front of it instead.
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We met our second set of 'friends' for the trip this night. Jennifer and Amar (we called him Rajeev) They were some SF. It was his 1st Jazz Fest, her 5th or something. We hung out with them for a while on the boat and talked. Rajeev thought that Tasha and I were an item. This would be the first or two times on this trip that this would occur. I also had my first Hurricane. It would not be my last. Many were had on this booze trip.
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We split up once the boat landed. Carolyn went back to the hotel, Ira went off with some other people, and Tasha Corey and I went out drinking. We, of course, ended up at The Famous Door, but first we stopped in a few random bars, Corey rode a mechanical bull, we skipped out on a drink minimum, and then we hit up the seedy part of the Quarter, Bourbon Street.
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We got back to the hotel room late, like 3ish, Ira got back maybe around 4. We passed out, and prepared ourselves for Day 2 of Jazz Fest, Day 3 in NOLA.
The weather the first two days we were in New Orleans was amazing. I got a bit worried because Heather had told me it had been storming pretty bad before we arrived, but the day we landed was gorgeous. The first day of the festival was amazing. Saturday was the question mark. Weather reports said a chance of rain. It was a bit cloudy, a bit muggy, and really windy. Luckily, it didn't rain (save random droplets) while we were at the festival, but later that evening was a different story.
Day 2 of the festival was BY FAR the best day of music. We saw Galactic. Etta James. Herbie Hancock. The Subdudes. Dave Matthews. Juvenille. Yes, he did back that ass up. This is, of course, in addition to all of the wonderful small acts and side stages we saw. The music was just phenomenal. Corey and I tried some Fry Bread with powerdered sugar and honey. It was amazing. Otherwise, the festival was mostly uneventful, just great music, good times.
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As you can tell all of our hair is pretty Frizzy and Windswept. That last picture is of Carolyn enjoying a tremendously good fruit salad.
We left Jazz Fest and we had nothing planned until 2AM. We had our night, our first real and full night in NOLA. We decided we should properly and on time seek out an eatery so we could then start our night with either music, drinking, or both. At 2AM we were going to a show to see Galactic.
We had a bit of an argument over dinner, Corey and Ira wanting 'traditional' food, me and the girls being a bit burnt out, wanting something more normal and with greater non fried selection. We chose this Italian restraunt that looked decently busy, had a big menu, and was playing the basketball games. (the only downside of the NOLA trip was it was in the middle of what is probably the best first round in the playoffs in NBA History). Little did I (or the rest of us) know that this would be perhaps one of the worst (but maybe the most fun) dinning experiences in our life.
We should have known when they were clearing our table for 15 minutes that something was wrong. We sat down. Getting in drink orders took a while. Getting drinks took a while. The pitcher of beer game with no glasses. Then it came with 1 too few glasses. Then it came with a cracked and broken glass. Warning signs were going off, but hey, we've comitted now...
Everyone was being a bit on edge. It has started to rain. Not just rain, but rather POUR. Everyone was soaked. We were all starving. We were all a bit grumpy from various things that occured throughout the day. I decided to lighten the mood by making a paper airplane out of the menu and then throwing it across the restaraunt. Though I was not allowed to test its air superiority in the establishment, a later test did yield that I am indeed a master craftsmen.
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You may ask why the meal was so bad. Well, by the time we finished the meal, it was about 12, maybe 12:30. We had started said meal around 9. Everyone was being pissy except for Tasha. I was being pissy to people, but it was in response to them being a bit pissy and me being a bit drunk. Life (along with our time in New Orleans) was way too short to be upset about a bad meal. I just went to the bar, got some drinks, and enjoyed myself. There's a chance that this was my favorite night in NOLA. It definately was the best up until this point. I met a guy at the bar from Detroit. He was friend number 3. He was big into mustangs, just in NOLA to eat and drink. My kind of guy. He reminds me of the social worker from bid daddy, a kind of gruff, older man, with a santa clause like quality.
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The food did eventually arrive. Well, most of it. I never got my order. Carolyn's was wrong, twice. Tasha's was late, and wrong once. Corey's wasn't to satisfaction and had a piece of tin foil in it. They were raving mad. I was having a great time. The waiter offered a 15% discount. I said we were only going to pay for drinks, and the 2 items that came out properly, without error, not even on time. We paid 16 dollars. I got it, it was the best meal I had had.
Everyone was still a little hungry. We had some time to kill before heading to the show. It was time to get Benigs. (Bengays as corey calls them)
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We arrive at Cade du Monde drenched. It has been pouring. I am that wet after wearing a water proof jacket with a hood (no umbrella though)
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Happiness was restored. Our stomachs full of a wonderful donut/funnel cake hybrid and smiles on our faces we walked back to the hotel in the pouring rain to change before the show. We some convnicing the ladies went with us and we found a taxi and went on our way.
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We met friends number 4 at the show. It was two NO natives we were so thankful (along with most natives we met) for us being there, coming to the city, supporting them. It was really great. As we waited for the show to being we talked for a long time with them, and they offered us things to smoke and drinks, and we made merry. The show was awesome. Now my third time having seen them, second time that day, Galactic blew me away. They ended up playing until 7AM. We left around 5:15, Tasha and Ira left around 4ish. I wanted to stay longer, I was running on a well oiled machine of booze and adrenaline, but once Carolyn found out the time, she crashed hard.
I met friend number 5 on the taxi home. We were a bit concerned about finding transportation home as we were uptown, in a more residential area, not a ton of taxis just hanging out. We saw a taxi van and 3 people crawling in. I ran up, asked if they minded if we joined them, they said not a problem, and a deal was brokered. Everyone in the taxi was nice, but the woman I was sitting next to, probably in her early 30s, it was her 11th jazz fest, was just going off about the city, the festival. She ahd a PhD in Pharmocology and was from Georgia. Her name was Dr. Emmy. She said that you never forget the people you meet in New Orleans, and at least at this point, 4 weeks later, it is true. There is something about how I met people, how we interacted, but their names, their stories, their faces, I remember it all.
This taxi ride was also great because the cabby was crazy. He didn't stop at stop signs, went 40mph down alleys, and was overall a bit insane. I shared with him this is the best cab ride I've ever had and he gave me a goofy look with crazy eyes. I love New Orleans.
We got back to the hotel around 5:45, Tasha and Ira were still up, they just got in a bit before us because of trouble finding a cab. We crashed ahrd with promises of a late morning.
It rained that night. And rained some more. We were pretty worried of the mud at the festival. We ended up not taking basically any pictures, but there really wasn't much new to take pictures of. Tasha didn't go with us to this day, no one she really wanted to see. I think had we not prebought tickets I probably would have skipped out also, but I am still glad I went.
We saw Allan Touissant with Elvis Costello. We saw Bruce Springstein. We saw The Meters. We saw a bunch of other smaller groups as well. The Boss was awesome. I am not a giant fan, but after seing him with teh segar band, I'd go see a show of his. I see why people love him. He has a charisma and voice that just reaches out to you and hooks you. It was great. Ending with The Meters was fun. They had some great stuff, a bit chaotic, but it was the perfect ending.
The girls had to leave the hotel at 6AM in the morning, so they were in for a bit early night. We decided we'd get a nice dinner, hit up a few spots for drinks, and then go from there.
There was a place we had wanted to go since the night we got there. We smelled it. The three boys noses found it and needed it. Two nights we were too late, one night we had the boat ride. This was the night. We got to Irene's and...it was closed. It is closed on Sundays. What? I hate thie city. All we wanted to do was eat there...I guess there's always next year.
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We were back to our same old typical problem now...what to eat? People were hungry, cranky, annoyed, and otherwise just tired of this dilema. We found a few places, but no one really wanted to comitt to one or the other. We checked our Emirl's place, the menu wasn't that great. We settled on this courtyard dining, I don't even remember the name, but it was great. Our server, Ashely, was a cute brunette southern girl who I left my number for and spent the greater part of the night seeking out at a bar she goes to. (She has yet to call, but I am still hopeful!)
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The food was actually really good. I got a garlic sauteed filet and some great veggies and potatos. Everyone enjoyed their meal a lot.
So, I was told, two drinks and places I had to go were Tropical Isle for a hand grenade and Pat Obriens for a Hurricane. We decided what a better thing to do than hit up both. Corey and I also decided we didnt have a night of being REALLY drunk in the French Quarter, so this was the night.
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Yes, I am doublefisting champagne and a hurricane. At this point Carolyn needs to go back to pack and get ready for bed. Ira will walk her back and may crash as well, he's exhausted. Tasha, Corey and I grab a beverage to go and then look at some shops and such and figure out what to do. Corey wants to stop at 'his bar' and have at least a drink. When we get there and hear Shot Through the Heart for the 3rd time this trip, I decide its time to leave. I want to find the bar Ashley told us about. Corey wasn't to stay. I threaten to buy him 2 shots from the ugly waitress. He says bring it. Little do I know the tables will be turned.
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She then indicates she has only 2 shots left, so I must do them. I decline. Corey says he's buying. I am now the butt of my own joke. At least he paid for his shots too.
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It is at this point that our night gets a bit hazy and takes a turn. We call Ira. We want him to experience this new found lucidity and rythym I have. (I can dance when im drunk) He begrudingly comes along and then we are trying to decide what to do. He doesn't want to stay at The Famous Door. He doesn't want to go find the place that Ashley told us about. Corey and I get impatient and walk down Bourbon Street. Tasha and Ira retire for the evening.
Corey and I had what is perhaps one of the best nights of my life. Keeping a glass of traveling gin, we spent forever and a night looking for St. Charles street. Corey led us astray. When Bourbon got nice, we knew we had gone too far. We ended up just wandering aimlessly and stopping in at random bars to piss, get more gin, or get a bottle of water. I had my traveling gin, with it I was invincible.
We finally found the Irish pub that Ashely told us to get to! (Contrary to what everyone but me said, it was REALLY close to the hotel) We looked for her but couldn't find her. We played 2 games of airhocky, corey whopped me. We had more gins. We sat at the bar, we sang, we were obnoxious. We stumbled back to the hotel at like 5AM. It was a great night.
We woke up in time to go to the continental breakfast, get ready, pack, check out of the hotel, and check our bags. We needed to be at the airport by 5 and we had a swamp tour to catch. A bus came and picked us up and took us away to where the tour will begin. We met Jerry, the bus driver. He was the most amazingly awesome person. He had something to say about everything. He would say something, take it back and modify it, and then take it back again. Example. He would say "Oh, I think all of the places to eat are back open again in the French Quarter. Well, maybe not all, but most. Well, you know, a lot of them are at least. I don't really know." He had great insight into the hurricane and people that didn't leave, frogs legs, and he gave us his play by play for driving. " I am going to turn right up a head and then in about a mile take a left."
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The bus ride was amazing. Corey was beaming the whole time, he got to go on a swamp tour. There were 2 things Corey needed from NOLA for his trip to be successful, a benigt and a swamp tour on a fan boat. I was REALLY happy that we decided to do the tour. It was a bit pricy, but it was a lot of fun and it gave us a side of New Orleans and Lousiana that as a out of towner you wouldn't see. It was beautiful. The water, the 'swamp', the trees, the animals, the gators. It was this totally untouched area that was so close to this really...interesting..city.
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We had a very nice guide. The way the tour worked is that he'd drive around, have fun, open it up, and then pull over and stop and talk about the area, give us some local history, point out animals, and of course, get the crocs to come taunt them out of the water some. It was a great time.
After the tour Jerry took us back to the hotel. We walked around some, ate some lunch (I call it the last supper), and then went to see the Bonerama play at a Tower Records. We got back to the hotel with like an hour to kill, we got our last drinks of NOLA, Daquris (I left my credit card there) and then were on our way back. We got back into LA at 11ish, we went to agoura, I got in my car, swung by my rents to pick some stuff up, went to LA and PASSED out. What a trip...
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