Where did you take them and how much was it?

At most of the shops I've worked at, a PROPER basic engine diagnostic would pick up most anything abnormal with the injectors. There are also ways to test them yourself at home, but I'm drawing a blank on the info right now.

For example, I know you can Ohm test the injectors with a basic multimeter to make sure the windings are still good. I'll have to see what I can dig up in my Library at home & post it here for all who are interested.

I will tell yah that with a Lab Scope you can verify EVERY aspect of an injector's operation. And hey, they only cost a grand or so, LOL!

Dang it!!! I keep forgetting to look up the info!

Well for all of you who keep looking here, I promise I'll have the info posted on Monday morning. My amnesia here is costing me some credibility.:( Actaully I've just been wrapped up in my personal life. Anyway folks, Monday morning for sure.:)

OK, here's what I was able to find in the short amount of time I had to research during the last day or so...

First, I couldn't locate any Ohm reading values for the injector windings. I'd imagine most Bosch type PFI injectors will have pretty similar values, so if those of you who are interested hunt hard enough, I'm sure the info's out there. I know I could've definately gotten the info off the repair database PC at work if I had the time on Sunday, but...

Most other in-depth testing really does require a Lab Scope though. If there was any point in it, I could post all kinds of Ossiloscope patterns for fuel injector operation...

Barring that, you can check fuel pressure with a guage & check that the PCM (computer) is actually (trying to) firing the injector by plugging a noid light into the electrical connector that plugs into the injector. They're available at most parts stores for about $6 or $7 a piece now. Just buy the one that fits your particular connector.

On the fuel pressure, here's a few things... Most of you already know PFI FP should be around 35 psi regulated & 45 unregulated, give or take. That's unmodified of course.;)

Next though, you can check to see if the fuel pressure stays up at least around 30 after you shut the engine off. There's supposed to be a valve that keeps the fuel from draining back into the tank via the return line after the engine's shut off. If the pressure does start dropping at least within the first 15 seconds, then you have either:

A) defective anti-drain back valve in the fuel pump assembly

B) a leak on the fuel lines somewhere (which hopefully you would have noticed before this)

C) an injector leaking gas into the cylinder via a bad or stuck open pintle.

You can eliminate the valve in the fuel pump assy by clamping off the return line right after the fuel rail, PROMPTLY shutting down the engine & seeing if the pressure still drops. If it does, you got a leaking injector. Finding the exact injector from there gets problematic.:)

I've got a few tricks that I've learned with a scan tool (code puller w/ a engine operation data display, ie sensor readings, etc...), BUT I need another day or so to collect them into a coherent thought & diagnostic process, esp since some of them require other special equipment too.

BTW, you can also listen to the injector with an automotive stethoscope (real or jury rigged) and see if it sounds like it's clicking with a regular pattern.

Hope this helps out some... In my experience, injectors are usually the most reliable part of the fuel system. Carbon build-up in the cylinder &/or injector tip, a restricted fuel filter or weak fuel pump are seen far more often than on outright bad injector.

I'll keep monitoring this thread, so if anybody wants any further info or something clarified, by all means ask away.:)

Well they hold rail pressure for a good long time so I didnt bother checking the plugs for gas (since its a PITA). I am doing a dianagnostic engine balance test tonight with a code scanner too. I will also listen to them with the scope

thanks