So .... my last time at the track (like two or three weeks ago) the stang ran a ****ty time (only got one run in and it had been over a year since I ran) .... Still beat my sisters modified SI by a second :) but ****ty none the less. I had to stop at the top of third since the SOB does not like shifting into 4th any more (it'll go into forth but It takes a few seconds for my to jam it in there :) ... it was not worth the frustration so I just pushed the clutch in at the top of 3rd and let it coast)... since then I've:

Replace the Plugs / Cap / Rotor / O2 sensors (the plugs / cap / rotor had about 50k miles on 'em :) ) ... the O2's had 170k on them.
Topped off the Trans (w/ mobil 1 synthetic ATF) and adjusted the clutch cable (I've got a firewall adjuster and an adjustable cable .... I was running out of adjustment of the firewall adjuster)
I've got a fuel filter and Taylor wires sitting in the back seat waiting for me to install them (which I will do before I run again)
I also got Hawk pads I'm going to install .... hopefully it'll stop better with them.

Anyways ..... what else should I check on the old gal (I plan to check the timing) to keep her running good?

The 4th gear on my trans 2/3-4 shifts are the issue ... 5-4 works great) .... what could be the story w/ that .... the trans (and the rest of the car) has 170k on it .... how long does the t-5 typically last before a rebuild/replacement is necessary

My guess is your #4 syncro is shot. try RPM matching next time you take it out it may make it smoother. Make sure you put stop-squeak on the back of your pads for good measure. . I'd suggest genuine motorcraft everything, you won't regret it. Do a coolant system flush. Clean out your IAC/TB. Check your fuel pressure. Replace your fuel filter with the one in your back seat. Oil change is good of course. New(or clean k&n) air filter/PCV Valve.

That should get you running great. Any other problems aside from the trans?

Sell 'er to me :nice: :|

My guess is your #4 syncro is shot. try RPM matching next time you take it out it may make it smoother. Make sure you put stop-squeak on the back of your pads for good measure. . I'd suggest genuine motorcraft everything, you won't regret it. Do a coolant system flush. Clean out your IAC/TB. Check your fuel pressure. Replace your fuel filter with the one in your back seat. Oil change is good of course. New(or clean k&n) air filter/PCV Valve.

That should get you running great. Any other problems aside from the trans?

thanks, chief! :nice:

oh yeah ... forgot about he PCV (I'll replace the PCV screen too) ... IAC and TB should be fine .... (I've cleaned them not too long ago ... I've got a new IAB too... but something like that I hold off until it breaks to replace it)... oil's good, nothing but Mobil 1 every 3k since I owned it at 40k .... yeah i've got a big bottle of the orange stuff for the pads ... I also plan to put antisease on the parts that move and contact the caliper ... and some on the bolt too (not on the threads though)

I had motorsport 9mm wire on it .... the the wire on #8 broke when I pulled it off ... I'll try my luck w/ the taylors this time .... I went w/ accell cap rotor (brass terminals) and autolite plugs (25's) (I like brass spwcially since I'm running a MSD Blaster coil w/ a MSD digital 6plus control box) coolant should be ok (I'll check it though ... I changed it when I put the griffen in ... and then again when I replaced the waterpump last year)

RPM matching works .... just takes too long to shift it like that at the track. I can live w/ it like that on the street ... but it's slowing me down at the track.

... nope ... no problems other then the trans (not too much has broke over the years ... replaced the waterpump and stuff before it broke ... had to replace two vaccum lines over the years... thats the only thing that has broke on it) ... allthough I'll probably replace the Fuel pump soon (just 'cause it's got 170k on it.... and I usually keep the tank more then 1/2 full... it'd be a bitch if it broke with a full tank of gas) Over all the car feels good .... I've has 4130 subframe connectors welded in and a 4130 G-load and strut tower brace in it since 40k ... car still feels tighter then gnat booty :)

do you know about how long the t-5's last? .... should I be looking to replace it with a TKO or T-56 :)

thanks, chief! :nice:

oh yeah ... forgot about he PCV (I'll replace the PCV screen too) ... IAC and TB should be fine .... (I've cleaned them not too long ago ... I've got a new IAB too... but something like that I hold off until it breaks to replace it)... oil's good, nothing but Mobil 1 every 3k since I owned it at 40k .... yeah i've got a big bottle of the orange stuff for the pads ... I also plan to put antisease on the parts that move and contact the caliper ... and some on the bolt too (not on the threads though)

I had motorsport 9mm wire on it .... the the wire on #8 broke when I pulled it off ... I'll try my luck w/ the taylors this time .... I went w/ accell cap rotor (brass terminals) and autolite plugs (25's) (I like brass spwcially since I'm running a MSD Blaster coil w/ a MSD digital 6plus control box) coolant should be ok (I'll check it though ... I changed it when I put the griffen in ... and then again when I replaced the waterpump last year)

RPM matching works .... just takes too long to shift it like that at the track. I can live w/ it like that on the street ... but it's slowing me down at the track.

... nope ... no problems other then the trans (not too much has broke over the years ... replaced the waterpump and stuff before it broke ... had to replace two vaccum lines over the years... thats the only thing that has broke on it) ... allthough I'll probably replace the Fuel pump soon (just 'cause it's got 170k on it.... and I usually keep the tank more then 1/2 full... it'd be a bitch if it broke with a full tank of gas) Over all the car feels good .... I've has 4130 subframe connectors welded in and a 4130 G-load and strut tower brace in it since 40k ... car still feels tighter then gnat booty :)

do you know about how long the t-5's last? .... should I be looking to replace it with a TKO or T-56 :)

No prob, Sounds good :) As far as I know T5s have been known to outlast the car itself on most terms. I'd say around 175-200's a fair guess before a rebuild. I'd say a T-56 would be sweet to go for :cool:
And if you replace the fuel pump get a walbro 255 :cool::nice:

I'd say all the above should get it running good..

On the tranny I think the best deal out right now is the G force T-5 cause you can keep your stock shifter, bellhousing, or the T-5 blowproof you might already have. Helps keep the weight down too, T-5's are light, my Tremec was a heavy sob..

http://www.g-forcetransmissions.com/tran_gt-5.asp


The new Tremec's look pretty strong too...

http://tremec.mrt-direct.com/500.php

O2 sensors are expensive.

O2 sensors are expensive.
No way man, they're only like $35-$40 a pop :)

well, for AMERICAN cars that is :usa:

I'd say all the above should get it running good..

On the tranny I think the best deal out right now is the G force T-5 cause you can keep your stock shifter, bellhousing, or the T-5 blowproof you might already have. Helps keep the weight down too, T-5's are light, my Tremec was a heavy sob..

http://www.g-forcetransmissions.com/tran_gt-5.asp


The new Tremec's look pretty strong too...

http://tremec.mrt-direct.com/500.php

:nice: Thanks! that G froce looks real nice! (never seen that before) I like the steap OD, I could switch to 3.73's or 3.55's w/ that and still keep the RPM low on the highway!

O2 sensors are expensive.

not too bad .... needed two for the stang @ $42.85 each from Advanced auto ... they were the Bosch's w/ the harness allready on them (no wire splicing necessary) .... the one from the Honda dealer for my sisters car was like $275 .... now that's expensive!

sooo..... I went to adjust my clutch cable again (third time to two months) .... I remembered that I have a steeda double hook quadrat so I wanted to get it on the first hook to buy me some more space (I ran out of adjustment at the fork.... the end of the cable was hitting the dust shield) .... any ways, I went below to loosen the nut at the fork.... just after removing the dust shield I notice I could see shiney metal between the bell housing and the front of the trans .... I thought that was weird .... 'bout a second later I noticed a bolt missing (going from the trans to the bell housing) .... after taking a closer look I noticed two bolts were missing ... one on the top was 1/4 the way out ... and one on the bottom was pretty much all the way out. .... the dealer did not have any bolts so I went to ace hardware to pick up something I could make work (I got 2" M12 bolts w/ SS lock washers) ..... The car is back to normal now!!! I got the clutch adjusted where I want it .... and now every gear works like a charm ... no more grinding going into 4th!!!!! I'm very happy.

:w00t:

:w00t:

I'm just glad I noticed the missing bolts (there's only 4 that hold it there) .... a couple more weeks and I would have been picking the 'ole T-5 of the pavement. :)

lol, nah not sure it'd fall all the way off lol

you DID get grade 8 bolts didn't ya?

lol, nah not sure it'd fall all the way off lol

you DID get grade 8 bolts didn't ya?

They did not say it on the box .... (there was only one chice for M12 bolts).

My 91 is getting old, & it just sits in the garage. I ran through a quick to-do list the other day to see what it would take to get it into decent enough shape for this year's FFW...I got to a grand & said "ehhhhh, I'll just run the Cobra again".

My 91 is getting old, & it just sits in the garage. I ran through a quick to-do list the other day to see what it would take to get it into decent enough shape for this year's FFW...I got to a grand & said "ehhhhh, I'll just run the Cobra again".

I gota keep the coupe running good .... I only bought it because markViii's were too expensive at the time and I wanted a 2dr v8 Rear drive car .... but the stang grew on me, and it's been good to me .... I owe it to her to keep her in good shape :) ... don't let that '91 rot, it deserves better then that!

Belts

Belts

:nice: .... there's only one and it looks ok .... And I've got a spare. Hoses are good too.... put the FMS blue silicon hoses on it.

I imagine the heater sore will go soon.... hey, anyone know what the best heater core is.... I'd rather only do it once. Is aluminum better? … my radiator is aluminum.

so.... my front parking brake cable broke last sat. .... I had to drive about 60 miles w/ it broke and the rear brakes were making all kinds of noise .... I pulled over after a few miles and jacked the car up and pulled the drums off ..... everything looked fine ... I backed off the self adjusters a bit just in case. .... nobody carries the front p-brake cable so I had to order it. The install was easy and all the noise is gone ... apearantly the handle keeps tention on the cables and somehow that stops noise that would otherwise be there .... since my cable broke I had to preload the spring in the handle .... the job took an hour or so and was pretty easy ... the preload part is a two man job though.

front parking brake? that wasn't factory was it? :scratch:

front parking brake? that wasn't factory was it? :scratch:


the front cable (http://secure.50resto.com/product1.cfm?CustomerID=2561480&ACBSessionID=3RZLqPBmnOqyGkpADvXB&SID=1&Product_ID=1087) for the parking brake :) .... connects to the handel in the car .... and connects the two cables that run to the rear wheels

i'll be damned... never would of thunk it. :)

so..... it seems like my problem w/ the trans is not fixed. The SOB is pouring fluid out of the rear and all over my brand spankin new Magnaflow SS X-pipe w/ cats (the bassani cats died, just put the magnaflow on SAT.) and smoking like a bitch. .... also, it wines like hell in 1,2,and 3 .... and grinds going into 4th (again). I'll be buying a g-force or a rebuilt t-5 this week (along w/ a clutch, TO bearing, and pilot bearing) .... its going to set me back 1-2 grand.... i'm not happy about that. ... I'm going to have to drive my truck until i get it fixed, I'm really not happy about that. .... seems like all that pressure placed on the rear of the trans did it in, oh well, live and learn.

Christmas present for shell? :|

Christmas present for shell? :|

Christmas present for Notch!!! Buy me a new tranny, sugar-mama! :)

Christmas present for Notch!!! Buy me a new tranny, sugar-mama! :)

send me your car and I'll send you back a tranny.. ;)

send me your car and I'll send you back a tranny.. ;)


:D lol

so..... it seems like my problem w/ the trans is not fixed. The SOB is pouring fluid out of the rear and all over my brand spankin new Magnaflow SS X-pipe w/ cats (the bassani cats died, just put the magnaflow on SAT.) and smoking like a bitch. .... also, it wines like hell in 1,2,and 3 .... and grinds going into 4th (again). I'll be buying a g-force or a rebuilt t-5 this week (along w/ a clutch, TO bearing, and pilot bearing) .... its going to set me back 1-2 grand.... i'm not happy about that. ... I'm going to have to drive my truck until i get it fixed, I'm really not happy about that. .... seems like all that pressure placed on the rear of the trans did it in, oh well, live and learn.


Dude, put the stang out to stud. :( My stang has been giving me trouble the past few months but I think I have all the problems ironed out. I just have to replace the front rotors and attempt to put in my new starter... again. I tried doing it last weekend only to fail and tear my pinky finger open on the tranny housing. Apparently I didnt have the right sized socket/wrench to loosen the bolts. :mad:

When I was underneath the car I noticed that I need to replace the crossmember that goes across the tranny... The part that bolts to the chassis on the passenger side is completely rusted out.

Maybe next year Ill buy a newer stang or a brand new 05/06. Depending on how my cash flow is.

Dude, put the stang out to stud.


not going to happen, big-fella :) .... Ordered a brand new close ratio (2.95 1st and .63 OD) t5 from ddperformance.com.... along with a FMS driveshaft, clutch, etc today. .... I thought about dumping it for a 2001-2003 towncar, but I really do like the stang, and I've got my truck I can drive when the stang is down. Maybe when the 05's are 2-3 years old I'll think about getting a used one.... the only vehicle(s) I'd buy new are Trucks/SUV's, cars depriciate too fast.

Well.... it took about 6-7 hours, but the new trans/clutch/driveshaft is in .... it great!!!!! :nice: smooth and quiet! .... the output shart on the tranny I pulled out was shot.... it would wiggle from side to side and ups and down all over the place (guess that was real shot, cuase there was absolutly no play in the new one).... anyways, it's a night and day difference! The close ratio seems real nice so far! I'm happy, I can park my truck and keep the miles off of it now!!!! plus I love driving that old stang, there's just something about it (probably the pure, unrefined power of the car..... in my mind, everything a muscle type car should be)..... long live the coupe!!!!

pics!

pics!

didn't take any ... I thought about it right before I got started.... but left the camera at home :(

:hmm:

:hmm:


I do have pics of the back of the engine from the first time I changed the clutch ..... I took them incase I ever needed to pull the heads or something (so i can see exactly where/how those air tubes bolt on). I can post those sometime if you want. :)

put my third set of Dunlop SP5000's on the car today (I love those tires), got an allignment too.... I could not find the record, but the last set was on there for 40,000+ miles :nice: I run 37.5psi in all four BTW.

Stang has been running a little rough latley..... someone not familiar driving it probably would not even notice...... but I notice. I does not run as smooth in low RPM as it should, it's not rough, but it just does not feel right. Air bag light has been comming on over the last week, it did that to me a few years ago.... I'm guessing the remedy will be the same ..... unplug the sensor up by the radiator hit it w/ contact cleaner and make sure the sensor is grounding good where it mounts. Check engine light has came on a few times too, pulled the codes and it says it's running lean.... ran injector cleaner through it a few weeks ago and the light has not been on since (except for about a minute tonight).... guessing my injectors are shot.... but I'm not sure 'cause the fuel pump is noisey as hell now, I think it's finialy dying (got 178+k on it). sometime in the near future I'll probably toss a new pump in it and see how that goes, I'm also going to run some more injector cleaner through it next fill-up. ..... still driving it everyday 80 miles, so far so good overall :nice:

180,xxx miles: So, I ordered and recieved a fuel pump a week or three ago. I got a walbro 155l/hr for $65 shipped to my door (from some place in FL). Ran around earlier today looking for a motocraft fuel filter (I did not want a fram or puralator), ended up getting it from the dealer. Pump install went smooth, after about 1/5hrs of dicking around with the fuel return line I ran over to my parents house to pick up my ac/fuel disconnect tools.... I should have saved the 1.5hrs dicking around with screw drivers trying to get it off.... had it off about 30 seconds after I climbed back under the car w/ the right tool. I did it by my self w/ about 1/4 tank of fuel in it, my arms are a bit sore from getting the tank down and back up.... I took my time on the filler tube as not to rip the gasket.... I did'nt, its all good. Pump is quiet, car idles better and runs better.... the old pump was noisey as hell.

While I was under the car I decided to changer the oil too, she got her regular does of 5qts mobil 1 full synthetic w/ a motorcraft filter. I also adjusted the clutch cable and topped off the trans fluid. Oh, during my last scan of the computer it had some code about the speed sensor not working ..... seeing as how a new one came w/ the new trans I figured I just forgot to connect it, sure enough, I connected it today.

Hopefully that'll keep her happy for a while :nice: I've got 8 19lb injectors I picked up w/ a GT40 intake (along with a bunck of other stuff)... got it about 4 years ago and never got around to doing anything w/ any of it (we actually I got the ac/fuel disconnect tools with the deal.... used them todat).... anyways I'll probably send the 8 spare injectors out to get blueprinted and toss them in sometime this summer, but she'll be happy about that!

oh yeah...... she overheated on my the other day (well not really, she was running hotter then normal so I pulled over and shut her down).... long story short, I bypassed the auto-reset circut breaker for my electric fan and drove her home ...... replaced the breaker w/ a 25amp inline fuse assembly (called flex-a-lite, the maker of the BM-175 fan on my car and that's what they suggested, said they stopped shipping them w/ the breaker about 2-3 years ago).

welp, that's it for now! Still love my Stang, I'd love a new car..... but I just can't bring myself to get rid of the Stang (I'll never get rid of her)..... Hearing the little v8 roar with the press of the throttle is the most pleasant sound on the planet, I ****ing love it.

In the process :) of replaceing the fuel injectors (8 Ballanced / Blueprinted 19lbers ... $106 for the work on the injectors), adding a BBK AFPR that I've had for years in my parents basement, replacing plugs / cap / rotor. All is good so far except I tore up my TB to intake gasket (ordered one today .... they said it'll be in tomorow so I can finish up), and I broke on of my taylor wires #$%^$%&%%^*&$&#$ I'm real ****ing pissed about that (they were not that old, and I did the same thing last time.... broke a damn wire), ordered another set from summit a few minutes ago.... damn it. Hopefully I can get it all back together tomorow ... and hopefully it runs :) ... I plan to set the base timing to 12 tomorow also (picked up a timing light at harbor freight for $13 .... curious to see if it works). .... I may back it down to 10 so I can run 87 octane .... but I'll probably go w/ 12 and 89 or better.

.... install went well, easier then I thought. She's got 187,770 miles now .... I actually looked at the milage thingy today :) .... anyways, the freggin check engine light is still comming on, O2's detecting a lean condition.... I'm pulling the bosch O2's out and putting my stockers back in, the bosches have been in since aug. of last year, I'm starting to think they're the problem. I'll replace the stockers w/ ones from the dealer when they break (they were good when they came out, I replaced them becuase they had 160k on them). Hope fully I'll get the stockers in next week (got to go over to my parents house to get them.... still have not moved all my **** out of their house yet). I set the Fuel pressure to 39 (that's the lowest the BBK would go by they way... w/ the vaccum line off). I did not get a chance to check the timing.... when I jack the car up to do the O2's I'll mark the ballancer and check the timing (I was too lazy to get the jack out today and mark the ballancer). She seems to be running real good w/ the new injectors/plugs/cap/rotor .... oh, the first accel 8233 cap/rotor I bought did not work... could not get the rotor on. It was replacing a 8233 that's been on the car a while .... I noticed the one on the car had a little # "2" on it... the new one had a "1" .... I took it back and got another 8233 kit and made sure the rotor had a "2" on it .... it fit like a charm. :shrug:

Put the original o2's back in today, the replacements were in for about 1 year and 17,000 miles. Here's some data. (mostly for my use in the future :) )

Original on car: (both identical)
E97f-9f472-aa 266
BOSCH 267 06 10 (982)
0 258 003 102 12V

New: # on box: 13942 0 258 003 942 009
SKU: 0 28851 13942 7

Stampings on 1 and 2 are different (typeface and "stuff" different)

On O2: (1 sensor)
292 11 80 (982)
0 258 003 942

(2 Sensor) … same as 1 Plus:
48609a0


Did not feel like going for a test drive .... I'll probably find out tomorow or friday if it made a difference (if it keeps my "check engine" light from comming on).... depends on the weather though, if it's nice out the stang will stay parked (like its been all week) and I'll take the bike.

Was raining when I woke up so I took the car to work.

Man, let me tell you, it's a whole new car w/ the new injectors in it.... really woke up. .... And NO check engine light on at all w/ the stocker O2's back in.

Timing is currently set to 10 (thought it was @ 12, but its not), that's going to change sometime soon, also I'm going to put those new wires on, they arrived Weds. I imagine bumping the timing up is going to make a big difference too!

Been running a little warm lately, I’m going to change the thermostat (with a good one this time) and flush the coolant system entirely, I have a feeling it’s the thermostat messing up. …. I’ve got a Griffin Radiator and a new water pump on it, so I’m really leaning towards the thermostat. (or the gauge, because it goes up the instant I turn the headlights on, indicating to me some kind of electrical crap going on)

Here’s a picture of the old gal, courtesy of the DC Automated Traffic Enforcement division of the DC police: (it was a warning, no fine)

51 mph in a what? 45 mph zone?

51 mph in a what? 45 mph zone?

35 zone .... NY Ave in NE

188,312 miles:

Been smelling fuel all week when driving .... checked and found leak on BBK FPR ... saw gas comming out around the plug for the fuel gauge (option on the BBK, I have no in-car gauge).... pulled the plug, put teflon tape around it and put it back in.... no more leak. Replaced the wires (if a wires breaks next time I change the plugs I will never buy taylor wires again) and set timing to 12-13 degrees. She's running real good now! Got 22.5MPG on the last tank, that was with ****ty traffic both two and from work both days (and a fuel leak :) ). ... oh, and no check engine light at all w/ the stocker O2's back in.

note to Notch, Adjusted clutch cable (AGAIN) .... tightened all the way at the fork, picked up the slack at the firewall. keep and eye on the firewall adjuster, if it seems the cable is wearing through (AGAIN), never buy from steeda again (the cable in on the front position of the quad).... get a MM kit / cable.

..... So, the stang is still running fantastic after all that (injectors / stuff).... I swear I must have picked up some major power from it, she will **** and get now .... very nice, now I remember why I bought her in the first place... and swore never to get rid of her.

195,xxx k. Check engine light is comming on :) ... pulling a code 44, 94, and 81. the TAD solenoid most likely bad .... easy fix. also pulled a code 21, 24, and 32 (ECT, ACT, EVP).... that was a KOEO test this morning with no warm up. after warm-up only pulled the TAD codes. :shrug:

Google the codes if you don't know what they are. I found a site that listed Ford OBD II codes when I needed to find out what my Explorer was coding. Your Stang should be the OBD I codes.

Google the codes if you don't know what they are. I found a site that listed Ford OBD II codes when I needed to find out what my Explorer was coding. Your Stang should be the OBD I codes.

:nice:

Found a good one here: http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=14
links on the right are good too (to the 3 digit codes, mine only has two digit codes, yours id prolly 3). I think everything '98 or newer has the obd II .. w/ the same connector no matter what car its on, unlike pre-98 where everyone had their own for the diag port.

(to the 3 digit codes, mine only has two digit codes, yours id prolly 3).
Mine coded P1400, which is "Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic Sensor circuit Low Voltage." I'd never heard of it so I had to Google that as well. Still haven't fixed it though. :hmm:

Mine coded P1400, which is "Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic Sensor circuit Low Voltage." I'd never heard of it so I had to Google that as well. Still haven't fixed it though. :hmm:

Damn ... sounds complicated :) ... what's the sensor sensing... what difference of pressure? (manifold?) ... never heard of that :)

you got a newer distributerless car/truck?

Damn ... sounds complicated :) ... what's the sensor sensing... what difference of pressure? (manifold?) ... never heard of that :)

you got a newer distributerless car/truck?
2002 Explorer. The DPFE Sensor is connected to the EGR and has something to do with it. The part is about $170 through Ford, or $70-$90 through an aftermarket supplier like Napa or Autozone. I took one look under the hood and abandoned the thought of fixing it this winter. That's a summer time project. :D

Got a 82 GT, first GT after the MustangII, thats up for sell.....mostly orginal(few extras;) ), of course the first thing I changed was I got rid of the stock 2 barrel for a Holley four, double pumper(remember those).......I even got the floor mats it came with......I believe after I(Ford) rebuilt the motor in 92, it has 37,000 miles plus the 88,000 miles before hand........I almost sold/traded it when I bought my 02 GT and again when I bought my 05 GT.......the sales manager at the Ford Dealership wants it but doesnt want to pay what I want to sell it for......twice he has offered 5,000 for it, but I believe(at least to me) it is worth more......

188,312 miles:

Been smelling fuel all week when driving .... checked and found leak on BBK FPR ... saw gas comming out around the plug for the fuel gauge (option on the BBK, I have no in-car gauge).... pulled the plug, put teflon tape around it and put it back in.... no more leak. Replaced the wires (if a wires breaks next time I change the plugs I will never buy taylor wires again) and set timing to 12-13 degrees. She's running real good now! Got 22.5MPG on the last tank, that was with ****ty traffic both two and from work both days (and a fuel leak :) ). ... oh, and no check engine light at all w/ the stocker O2's back in.

I'd ditch the BBk and get an Aeromotive, I've never been impressed by the quality of BBK's stuff..